Nairobi has long served as the gateway to safaris, dating back to the days of Teddy Roosevelt and Ernest Hemingway. Today, it remains a key starting point for many travelers venturing into East Africa for business, vacations, or holidays. With both Jomo Kenyatta International Airport and Wilson Airport, Kenya’s rapidly growing capital is a major hub for visitors, and chances are you’ll spend at least one night here between flights.
Since colonial times, Nairobi, Kenya’s capital and largest city, has served as the country’s cosmopolitan heart and a gateway to East Africa. What sets Nairobi apart as an African destination is its unique blend of urban life and wilderness, with Nairobi National Park—a vast game reserve home to endangered black rhinos, giraffes, zebras, and lions—right on its doorstep. Nearby, the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust runs a renowned elephant orphanage. Nairobi’s modern skyline often surprises first-time visitors, whose perceptions are shaped by stories of colonial history or wildlife documentaries.
As one of the fastest-growing cities in sub-Saharan Africa, with a population of around 4.3 million, Nairobi is dominated by sleek office buildings, shopping complexes, and residential towers. Yet, the city hasn’t lost all of its old-world charm. Historical landmarks like the iconic Norfolk Hotel still echo the refined lifestyles of the early settlers, while the colonial-era farmhouse of Out of Africa author Karen Blixen, located at the foot of the Ngong Hills, serves as a reminder of Kenya’s coffee heritage.
Nairobi faces its share of urban challenges, including gridlocked traffic, poorly maintained and overcrowded vehicles, and a lack of emissions control. Crime can also be a concern, with occasional muggings and carjackings. The city’s growing inequality is evident—on one side, opulent private estates on the outskirts boast mansions with stables, tennis courts, and swimming pools, while just a short distance away, vast slums of tin shacks lack basic amenities like electricity and running water.
Despite these issues, Nairobi has experienced rapid economic growth and has become the headquarters for many major institutions, including the United Nations. The city has made strides in shedding its chaotic image, with affluent neighborhoods emerging, a growing middle class, decreasing crime rates, and ongoing infrastructure improvements. One notable development is the sleek Nairobi Bypass, which has significantly eased traffic congestion. For visitors, Nairobi offers a vibrant array of attractions, excellent shopping and dining, and a range of world-class hotels catering to safari-bound tourists.
Getting to and Exploring Nairobi
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA)
Nairobi National Park, located just south of the city, is adjacent to both Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA) and Wilson Airport. Popular tourist spots and hotels can be found in the suburbs of Karen and Langata, situated southwest of the city center, with the Ngong Hills marking the edge of the Great Rift Valley further beyond. To the north of the city, you’ll encounter the suburbs of Muthaiga, Gigiri, and Limuru.
International and some domestic airlines operate flights into JKIA, Kenya’s main airport, located 16 km (10 miles) southeast of downtown Nairobi. The airport features modern terminals offering left luggage services, ATMs, mobile phone shops, Forex Bureaux, and cafés.
Wilson Airport
A taxi ride from JKIA to the city center usually takes around 40 minutes (from US$25; always negotiate beforehand), though this can extend to two hours during rush hour. Many hotels provide air-conditioned shuttle services from around US$35 per person, so it’s a good idea to arrange this when booking your accommodation.
Wilson Airport, located 5.5 km (3.4 miles) southwest of the city center on Langata Road, serves domestic, charter, and some regional flights. Although facilities are limited, airlines like Airkenya and Safarilink offer lounges and cafés. A taxi from Wilson to the city center costs approximately US$15, and hotels can arrange shuttle services here as well.
If you’re only in Nairobi for a short stay, renting a car is unnecessary. Opt for taxis to explore the city’s attractions, but remember to always buckle up and agree on the fare before your journey begins. Locals often use matatus (passenger minivans seating up to 15), though these are known for reckless driving and can be unsafe.
Exploring Nairobi City
Discover Nairobi: More Than Just a Safari Gateway
Nairobi is more than just a stopover on your way to Kenya’s famous safari destinations—it’s a vibrant city filled with restaurants, shopping malls, museums, wildlife encounters, and exciting vacation attractions. Whether you have just a few hours or a couple of days to explore, Nairobi offers a wealth of experiences for every type of traveler.
Wildlife Encounters in the City
If your time in Nairobi is limited to a few hours, you can still experience some of Kenya’s most remarkable wildlife without leaving the city. Begin your day at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, where you can watch baby elephants play and learn about conservation efforts at the renowned orphanage. Just a short distance away is the Giraffe Centre, where you can hand-feed endangered Rothschild’s giraffes from an elevated tower, a unique and memorable experience for both kids and adults.
For those with more time, a game drive in Nairobi National Park is a must. Located just 20 minutes from the city center (7 km/4 miles), this park offers the chance to spot big safari animals like lions, giraffes, zebras, and rhinos, all against the backdrop of Nairobi’s skyline. Although elephants aren’t present, the park’s diverse wildlife and scenic landscapes make it a great introduction to Kenya’s famous game reserves.
Cultural and Historical Experiences
If wildlife isn’t the only thing on your itinerary, Nairobi also boasts a rich cultural scene. For history buffs, a visit to the Nairobi National Museum offers insights into Kenya’s heritage, from prehistoric fossils to exhibits on modern African art and culture. The Karen Blixen Museum, located at the former home of the Out of Africa author, provides a glimpse into colonial-era life in Kenya and the country’s coffee heritage.
Shopping and Souvenir Hunting
Nairobi is also a shopper’s paradise, especially if you’re on the hunt for authentic Kenyan souvenirs. The city’s many markets and curio shops offer a wide range of items, from intricately carved wooden animals and vibrant batik art to Maasai beaded jewelry and hand-crafted leather sandals. The Maasai Market is a popular spot for travelers looking for one-of-a-kind items to take home as a reminder of their African adventure.
A Dynamic City Worth Exploring
Whether you’re passing through or staying longer, Nairobi is a city worth exploring. Its blend of urban energy, cultural heritage, and close proximity to wildlife make it a unique destination for both first-time visitors and seasoned travelers.